Saturday, December 19, 2020

Free watercolor painting demo -- Kayaks

Here's the finished painting from my demo! I cleaned up a few edges, and I added in two extra kayaks in the background. I made the kayaks in the background lighter in value, color in temperature, and grayer in intensity to depict distance through atmospheric perspective. 


 If you missed my live online demo the other day, don't despair -- I just uploaded it to YouTube! It's one hour long from start to finish. Be sure to check it out, and subscribe to my YouTube channel to get all the latest updates. Better yet, follow me on Facebook, too, then you can watch in real-time when ever I paint live online!

 

I used my favorite art supplies in this demo -- Sennelier colors, Dynasty brushes, and Hahnemuehle paper. These are my "go-to" supplies that I recommend to everyone! 


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posted by Annie Strack @ 2:30 PM   0 Comments

Monday, August 3, 2020

More koi and other news

I'm thrilled to announce that my painting "a Tug at my Heart" is juried into the Kentucky Watercolor Society 43rd Annual Aqueous Exhibit! This is my 3rd acceptance which earns Signature Status in KWS. It is the 16th Signature Status that I've earned, although I still have not earned it from the Big Three societies. 


I wrote an illustrated tutorial for Plaza Art Store with this painting, you can see it online

I also worked on this small painting of Koi last week, using my Water Lily brushes from Dynasty Brush on the Leonardo CP paper from Hahnemuehle. 


The Water Lily line of brushes from Dynasty Brush are a soft synthetic hair that resembles natural Kolinsky sable more than other other synthetic brush available. The hairs are extremely absorbent and have a nice spring that is neither too firm nor too soft. Besides being vegan, they have all the characteristics of Kolinsky, but with the durability and affordability of synthetic. 


The Leonardo line of paper from Hahnemuhle is 280 pound watercolor paper that comes in rough, cold, or hot pressed surfaces. It is bright white and the cold and rough have wonderful textures. I prefer blocks, and this paper comes in handy blocks of 10 sheets. I seldom treat myself to a heavy paper, so painting on this 280 pound paper was a real luxury for me that I greatly enjoyed. 

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posted by Annie Strack @ 4:24 PM   0 Comments

Monday, April 9, 2018

How to make a quick and easy shelf for a watercolor easel!

Many watercolor artists paint flat -- using a table to paint upon rather than an easel. I prefer to use an easel, and I like a watercolor easel because it allows me to tip the painting flat when I'm laying in a wash, and tip it vertically for other techniques. The drawback to these easels is that there isn't anywhere to place a palette and other supplies-- so a table is still needed.

I came up with a new idea for an attachable easel shelf, that's simple and easy to make. And really inexpensive!

This is a wire closet shelf. It is 12 inches deep, and I cut it to 16 inches wide. I choose that size because it is the same size as a 12x16 block of watercolor paper, so it will be easy to pack it with my blocks when I'm traveling. 


It is simply hung on the bracket screws on the easel's legs. The bracket screws are made to hold the canvas shelf (aka stabilizer shelf). My easel has two pairs of these brackets, and I hung my new shelf on the lower pair. My canvas shelf is right above it, on the other pair. 

This photo shows how the shelf rests on the easel. I added a larger washer behind each of the screws to help hold it more securely, but it really didn't need it. The two parallel horizontal bars of the shelf are what is holding it flat against the legs, and keeping the surface of the shelf level. The vertical connectors between the horizontal bars are spaced 12 inches apart -- the perfect width for bracing against the screws.

Want to learn more? Watch this short video for the full details on how to make and attach this shelf! Not sure how to attach it with only one pair of bracket screws? Watch the video to see how it can be secured with a bungee, instead. 



And here's another wire shelf. I found a small stack of these at the Habitat re-store, already cut to 16 inches wide and ready to hang. Best of all, they were priced at a buck a piece. Absolutely perfect.


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posted by Annie Strack @ 9:39 PM   2 Comments

Sunday, December 31, 2017

Plein Air Essentials for Watercolor Painters!

I paint en plein air often and teach classes and workshops, and my new students often ask me what gear they need to come join me on these excursions. I first started painting outdoors back in the early eighties, when I worked as a State Game Warden in the Florida Everglades. Back then, I kept a small box with my painting supplies in the back of my truck so I could sketch and paint the landscape around me.

Later, when I lived in California I organized some artist friends to join me on weekends to paint the breathtaking scenery of the valleys and coastlines. Back then, we called it painting outside or paint outs -- "plein air" was not used as a noun until recent years.

The supplies I carry with me haven't changed much over the decades. Paint, brushes, and water are the essentials. I prefer pan watercolors and I keep a penknife, pencil, eraser, sandpaper, salt, and travel brushes with the folding palette. The travel brushes have self-storing handles that protect the brush when not in use. I like to use a watercolor easel such as this one, but when I was younger I would just sit on the ground and hold my painting on my lap as I worked.

I show a selection of water containers in this photo, and they all have one thing in common -- they collapse. The dog bowl holds enough water to paint a larger painting, or the smaller camping cup can can be tucked in a bag with a sketchbook to be handy for impromptu sessions. The red rectangle in this photo is a value finder. Looking through it helps artists to see values, and both in their subject and in their painting.

The right paper is a major component of painting. I like a small sketchbook such as this spiral bound one from Hahnemuehle for sketching on the go and small studies. For full size plein air paintings, I use 140 paper mounted in block form, such as this 12x16 block of Cezanne paper from Hahnemuehle.

Annie Strack teaching plein air painting in Spain

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posted by Annie Strack @ 12:04 PM   0 Comments

Saturday, July 22, 2017

New Workshop just added! Plein Air painting in Watercolor!

New workshop just added! I'm teaching a 1-day plein air watercolor workshop at the Community Arts Center in Wallingford in September! This workshop is already starting to fill up, so sign up now if you want to get in before it's too late.

Students will learn how to break through the confusion of choosing a plein air painting subject, and learn how to plan a landscape composition by eliminating distractions and focusing on their subjects. They will learn how to capture light and shadow in their paintings, and how to see the landscape in simplified shapes of colors and values. They will learn how to mix colors with a limited palette, and depict a variety of perspective techniques to create depth and dimension in paintings. Students will learn how to sketch quick value studies, and add buildings, architectural elements, and gestural figures to the landscape to create drama and interest in their paintings. A variety of techniques will be demonstrated, and students will receive lots of hands on individual instruction and critique.
  • This workshop takes place outdoors, so please bring a folding chair.
  • Rain date will be September 19.
Instructor -- Annie Strack
Annie Strack has earned Signature Membership in 9 artist societies including the International Society of Marine Painters, and she is an Official Authorized Artist for the U.S. Coast Guard. Her paintings are exhibited in museums and galleries throughout the world and have been featured in over 20 solo shows. She is the author of the art instruction video Painting Seascapes in Watercolor which is broadcast on television stations worldwide and also available on DVD, and since 2005 she’s been a Contributing Editor for Professional Artist magazine. She teaches painting at Artists Network University, and she travels around the world to teach workshops, jury art exhibits, and paint en plein air. Her artwork has received hundreds of awards and hangs in over 1,000 collections worldwide including U.S. Coast Guard, U.S. Navy, U.S. Pentagon, U.S. Senate, Veterans Administration, and many more.

Required supplies for this course:
  • Palette containing your favorite (or standard) watercolors
  • Assorted watercolor brushes (natural hair such as sable and squirrel preferred)
  • Sketchbook or journal for sketches
  • Several pieces of 140# CP or rough watercolor paper, small sizes, no larger than quarter sheet (Watercolor Blocks preferred)
  • Water container
  • Pencil
  • Value Finder (you may purchase one from instructor for $5 if you don't have one)
  • Optional: Watercolor easel, plein air umbrella, hat

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posted by Annie Strack @ 4:53 PM   0 Comments

Tuesday, August 9, 2016

New pens for plein air watercolor painting!

I just tried some new products for watercolor painting en plein -- opaque white gel pens. These pens are lightfast and archival, making them ideal for watercolor painters. The Uniball pen was a given to me by my dear friend, artist Deb Watson. The Sakura and Marvy pens I found in the crafts department of a fabric store chain. Both the Uniball and the Marvy are 1.0 mil wide, and the Sakura is .04 wide. The wider ones are better for watercolor. Because these are opaque, they cover very well and can be used to add whites to a watercolor painting at the end. This makes it perfect for painting en plein air, when it's inconvenient to use masking fluid. 


 In other news, my workshop in Spain next Spring is almost full! There are only a few seats left, and prices go up after November 2016 so you don't want to wait until the last minute to reserve your space!

As an added bonus, I'm giving away white gel pens, traditional sketching pens, and a special sketchbook to each artist in this workshop!

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posted by Annie Strack @ 9:37 AM   0 Comments

Tuesday, February 9, 2016

Paint with me in Spain!

I've just been booked (yesterday!) to teach a watercolor workshop in Costa Brava, Spain -- and it's already selling out fast! There are only 8 spaces left! This plein air watercolor painting workshop is May 1 - 8, 2017. The itinerary includes museums, medieval villages, botanical gardens, castles, fishing villages, and the beautiful coastal seashore of the Costa Brava in northern Spain.


Sign up NOW to reserve your space, before it's all sold out! Contact Jackie at French Escapade tours for more information or to sign up!

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posted by Annie Strack @ 3:04 PM   0 Comments

Sunday, March 29, 2015

How to Write Your Artist Statement


I've had a lot of requests lately from artists asking for help with writing their artist statements, so I'm reposting this article on the subject that I wrote several years ago for Art Calendar magazine. I hope it helps make the writing process easier for some of my followers!

Writing Your Artist Statement
By Annie Strack (c) 2007

Sooner or later every artist is asked to provide an artist statement. If you sell your work through galleries, you’ll find that most of them will ask you to provide a statement that they can refer to when talking about you and your work to a client. Art festivals sometimes require artists to display their statement in the booth. If you find yourself being interviewed by the media, the information in your statement helps to provide them with your background information and serves as a written resource for them to garner direct quotes. More importantly, buyers like to read them. As an artist, people are interested in you and what you do, and genuinely want to know.

There used to be a time when artists would fold their arms across their chest and haughtily say “my work speaks for it’s self.” In today’s world, that attitude and response finds little acceptance. An artist who is prepared and willing to talk about themselves and their art has a distinct advantage when it comes to promoting their art. The artist statement conveys that you are professional and serious about your career, passionate about your work, and dedicated to your creative mission.

The Artist Statement is one of the three basic building blocks of your marketing plan, the others being your resume and your biography. Your Statement is an essential component of your overall plan, explaining who you are, what you do, how you do it, and why you do it. It clarifies and explains your artistic mission, philosophy, and ideas to the reader, and also sometimes to you.

You can start the process of developing your Artist Statement by answering four basic questions:

  •  Who you are
  •  What you do
  •  How you do it
  •  Why you do it.

Write your answers in first person, using descriptive adjectives but leaving out any technical jargon that the reader may not understand.

Who are you?
Think about what has influenced you and your work. Have you lived in interesting places? Have family, friends, mentors, or schools influenced you? Have you had a life altering experience? Write a few sentences about how these, and other things, shaped who you are or guided your work. For example: “In the course of building my own boat and sailing it around the world, I spent several of the most inspiring years of my life on the islands of the Caribbean. The people I met and the places I visited influenced me tremendously, and stimulated my desire to record my travels in the form of art.” Or maybe: “As a child living in the remote mountains of Montana, I grew up surrounded by the unspoiled vistas of the wilderness. At an early age I acquired a passion for the environment, and often hiked the verdant trails sketching and painting the beauty of nature.”

What do you do?
Now write a few sentences about what you do; the style, genre, and subject matter of your art. For instance, “I paint tropical landscapes in an impressionist style, hoping to convey the beauty and lushness of the hot steamy jungles and sun drenched beaches.” Or, “I paint wildlife in its natural setting, to share with others the majesty of these creatures and the splendor of their environment.”

How do you do it?
Write a few sentences about your artistic process, from start to finish. Do you work in the studio, or on location? What media do you use, and how do you use it? Why do you prefer this media, subject, and style? For example: “I paint in the studio using reference photos gathered from my travels through the Caribbean. I choose to paint in oils because the richness and thickness of the paint allows me to build up the texture of the painting and express the vibrant deep colors of my subjects. I prefer to paint in the impressionist style, using broad loose brushstrokes to convey the sultry hot breezes of the tropics, and the dancing light and shadows of the tropical sun.” Or, “I travel the world on photographic safaris with my camera, to seek out my subjects in their natural habitat. I prefer to work primarily with colored pencils because it affords me the control to accurately capture details and to effectively portray the individual character and personality of each animal.”

Why do you do it?
Write a few sentences about your life as it relates to your art, and what message you are trying to convey to the viewer. Explain what you find to be rewarding or meaningful about your work. Think about your own emotional connection to your art, and what you want viewers to think or feel when looking at your art. Maybe you have a personal philosophy about life or art that you can share in your statement. Here are a few examples: “Each painting portrays my own private sanctuary, and I hope to share with others the peace and serenity I feel when I paint. I want the viewer to be able to take a vacation in my paintings, to escape to my tranquil beaches and stand with me under my swaying palms and tropical skies.” Or, “Each of these wildlife paintings is a way for me to share my passion for nature and the environment with others. I strive to raise the viewer’s awareness of our environment, and share with them the fragile and fleeting splendor of our natural resources.”

I’ve given you a few examples, now it’s your turn. Think about these four basic questions and jot down your own answers. Once you have all of your ideas written down, it’s time to string them together and arrange them into meaningful sentences and paragraphs that will fit onto one page as your finished Artist Statement. Compose it as if you were writing poetry, using descriptive words that paint an image in the readers mind of who you are, what you do, how you do it, and why.

Don’t forget, your artist statement, resume, and bio are useful tools that you can use and refer to when creating other promotional materials. Once you have these materials prepared, you can excerpt information from these documents for your future press releases, brochures, flyers, interviews, etc., making each of these processes simpler to accomplish.

###
 
This article was first published in Art Calendar magazine in 2007 and reprinted in the book (The Artists Guide To) Art Business and Marketing in 2008. Annie Strack is an Official Authorized Artist for the U.S. Coast Guard and has earned Signature Membership in dozens of artist societies. Her artwork has received hundreds of awards and hangs in more than 1,000 public and private collections worldwide. In addition to being a highly acclaimed juror for art shows and popular workshop instructor, she is the producer and host of Painting Seascapes in Watercolor, which is broadcast on television stations worldwide and also available on DVD. Annie draws experience from her former career in corporate management to build a successful art career, and she shares her knowledge of business and marketing in her articles for Art Calendar, Professional Artist, and The Crafts Report magazines. 

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posted by Annie Strack @ 8:24 PM   1 Comments

Sunday, March 23, 2014

Developing a Strategy for Successful Pricing



How to create a sensible formula for pricing your artwork.
Several variables factor into art pricing.  To begin with, prices reflect the level of the artist’s recognition.  Paintings by well –known artists always command higher prices than work by unknown artists, often regardless of the skill involved.   Experience and credentials play a role in pricing as well, and works by artists who have acquired a history of awards, prominent collectors, and prestigious exhibits are perceived as more valuable than works by emerging artists.  Researching the prices of artists in your market who have a level of experience and style that is similar to yours can provide a starting point for formulating your prices.  

Market demand is also a large element in considering prices.  Artwork is worth what people are willing to spend on it, and the more people who want it; the more value it has.  The geographic area also plays a part in pricing, and art can be marketed easier and at higher prices in regions that are more affluent.   Art displayed in prestigious galleries in metropolitan cities is usually perceived to have more value than art exhibited in small town gift shops.  This doesn’t mean that an artist can charge different prices in different regional markets, or in different venues.  Artists should change venues as their prices rise, and recruit new sales venues and markets that can sustain those increased prices.  

Another factor in pricing is the choice of medium used.  Some mediums are perceived as being more valuable than others, and buyers are usually willing to spend much more on an original oil painting than they are for watercolors or other types of paintings.  Generally, oil paintings are at the top of the food chain, followed by acrylics, watercolors and pastels, hand-pulled prints and drawings, and reproductions.  


Most artists price their work according to size, and the most popular method is to formulate a base price unit for each square inch.  But the value of art is only what someone is willing to pay for it, and an artist needs to know what the current value of their art is in order to accurately create a formula for pricing.  A simple way to determine current value is to compare the retail prices of the paintings that have recently sold, and determine which sizes and prices are the most popular sellers.  Knowing which painting sizes are the most popular, an artist can then develop a base price unit for his work by dividing the retail price of the painting by it’s total of square inches.  For instance, if most of your sales have been for 16 x 20 paintings at around $900 to $1000 each, then your most popular paintings are valued at a unit price of about $3 per square inch.  This price per square inch can then be used as a base unit to ensure consistency when calculating prices for new artworks.  

If you compare the unit prices of the paintings that haven’t been selling as well, you may find that the reason for some of the more sluggish sales could be because some of the prices are inconsistent or out of whack with your base unit price.  Paintings that are priced considerably higher than your current unit price may be over priced for your market, while other paintings with price units that are considerably lower may be sending the wrong signals to your customers about the value of your art.  Whether too high or too low, inconsistent prices are confusing and sometimes even suspicious to buyers, and can severely hinder sales.  That’s not to say that every painting of a certain size has to be exactly the same price; allowing a small range of about 10% when setting prices provides adequate room to allow for exceptions in pricing, such as paintings that may be slightly more or less complex, or paintings that have received awards or other recognition.  Additionally, having a sliding price schedule where larger works are priced at slightly less than the base price and smaller works are priced at slightly more will alleviate huge price differences between sizes.

For instance, this sample is a sliding (10%) pricing schedule with a 10% range, and with the median painting priced at $3 per square inch.  

8 x 10 = 80 sq in, x $3.63 = $275 to $305
12 x 16 = 192 sq in, x $3.30 = $602 to $665
16 x 20 = 320 sq in, x $3 = $912 to $1008
20 x 24 = 480 sq in, x $2.70 = $1231 to $1301
24 x 30 = 720 sq in, x $2.43 = $1663 to $1838

So if the retail price of a 16 x 20 painting is $1000, and the artist pays an average of 50% commission on sales, then the artist is getting a wholesale price of $500 for the painting.  However that $500 is not all profit, there is still the COGS (Cost Of Goods Sold) to calculate before a profit can be determined.  COGS include all the supplies and materials used to create the artwork, as well as equipment, overhead, marketing, professional, and other expenses related to the sale of the final product.  To determine these costs, a business adds the totals of all the expenses for a given time period (such as quarterly or annually), and divides this figure by the number of items sold during this period.  For instance, if an artist’s business expenses were $10,000 in a year and he sold 50 paintings, then the COGS average out to $200 for each painting.  If the paintings sold at retail for an average of $1000 and the artist received an average wholesale price of $500, then he is making a profit of $300 on each sale.  Although this sounds like a successful profit, there’s still more to consider.    The sale of 50 paintings at a profit of $300 each means his total profit for the year is $4,500.  If the business is a full-time endeavor, then this breaks down to an hourly wage of a little more than two dollars an hour for the artist.  Even if we re-calculate this as a part-time business, the wage then climbs to only a little more than $4 an hour.    

Many artists choose to supplement their sales income by providing art related services, such as teaching lessons or workshops, painting custom ordered paintings, consulting, and other services.  Just as with anything else, artists need to figure out just how much time and expenses are actually involved and calculate an acceptable wage for their service.  

Artists also need to understand the differences between wholesale prices and retail prices, and what circumstances are appropriate for wholesale.  Many artists mistakenly set higher retail prices on works that they place for sale in galleries and other venues that charge a commission.  This unprofessional practice of wholesaling directly to the public results in artists underselling and alienating their galleries, and even alienating their customers.   Artwork should only have one retail price, regardless of where or how it was purchased.  Some artists try to justify the practice of setting duel retail prices by believing that direct sales encompass fewer sales related expenses, such as paying sales commissions.  However the actual costs related to selling still exist, even when selling directly to a customer.  For instance, direct selling at an art festival has the expenses of the booth fees, travel and lodging, equipment and merchandising displays, marketing, and other costs that can quickly add up to hundreds  of dollars or more per festival.  Not to mention, for every festival an artist attends, he loses four or five working days that could be spent on production.  These extra costs of sales can easily equal or even exceed what an artist would pay for sales commissions to galleries.    

When to discount artwork, and by how much, is another axiom that artists often face in routine business.  It’s perfectly acceptable to offer a wholesale price to galleries, decorators, and other professional retailers.  And if a retail customer is purchasing three or more paintings, I have no objection to offering them a ten percent discount for a preferred or loyal customer.   But an artist can’t discount everything for everybody who asks; the profit margin simply isn’t large enough to allow for this, and consistent discounting can have an adverse effect on the value of the artist’s work.  When bargain shoppers ask me if I can give them a discount, I politely tell them that I have some paintings that are similar but less expensive, and then direct their attention to those instead.  Another alternative that I’ve found effective is to counter-offer a discount request with an offer of something else instead, such as free shipping or an upgraded frame.  This type of negotiation allows the price of the artwork to remain constant, but still lets the customer believe that they’ve still managed to bargain for a better deal.    

Knowing when to raise prices, and by how much, can be a bit trickier.  All artists want to get the maximum price for their work, but raising prices too high or too quickly can cause sales to stagnate or fall.  Ideally, prices should rise when they are justified by a steady and sustainable market demand.  In my own art business, I consistently raise my prices once a year.  If I’ve had a particularly good year, I might raise them as much as a whopping five or six percent, while in slower years I might only raise them one or two percent.  These small increases may not sound like a lot, but they add up over time.  The knowledge of impending price increases also increases customer confidence in the value of the artwork, and helps them to self-validate their purchases.  

There are no set rules for pricing artwork, and there is no single formula that is going to be perfect for every artist.  But these examples and guidelines can assist you in developing or adjusting your own pricing formulas and standards.  By adhering to policy standards you will ensure consistency in your pricing, and portray your business in a professional manner that will help to instill your customers with confidence in their purchases.  


Copyright:  Annie Strack 2008©. A professional artist specializing in seascapes and maritime paintings, Annie Strack has earned Signature Membership in numerous international artist societies and is an Official Authorized Artist for the USCG. She draws from her previous career in corporate management to build her successful art career, and since 2005 she’s been sharing her business and marketing expertise with the readers of Art Calendar, Professional Artist, and other magazines. This article originally appeared in the May 2008 issue of Art Calendar Magazine. 

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posted by Annie Strack @ 2:10 PM   4 Comments

Saturday, March 22, 2014

Painting Trees in Watercolor

I had a very productive class yesterday in my studio, focusing on drawing and painting trees! Here are some of my demonstrations from my workshop.
 I started with drawing basic shapes and "scribbles" and showing how those shapes could then be arranged to depict trees and shrubbery. I demonstrated shortcuts and tips to help my students remember simple shapes and ways to draw realistic trees with just a few lines and scribbles. We worked with pencils and pen and ink in our drawings.
After my students had drawn several types of trees and were confident in their skills, I moved on to painting and showed how to use and mix a variety of colors that "read" as green, and help keep landscape paintings from appearing too monochromatic and flat. I taught how to create blooms of texture with a wet-into-damp technique, how to use salt to depict the look of foliage, how to create details by lifting paint, and tons of other techniques.
We also had time for me to demonstrate how to use values and color temperature to create depth and visual interest. This class is always popular, so I'll be teaching it again soon!

In the meantime, be sure to check out my other upcoming workshops at my Kennett Square Studio, and if you can't come in person, you can always take my basic watercolor classes on-line at Artists Network University -- where I teach classes year-round and I have a new class starting every few weeks!

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posted by Annie Strack @ 6:43 PM   0 Comments

Monday, May 4, 2009

Tips for using watercolor masking fluid

One of my favorite tools in my paint box is masking fluid, also known as liquid frisket. Masking fluid is a liquid rubber product that is used by watercolor painters as a water resist - in other words, it preserves the white of the paper and protects it from paint. These tips will help you use your masking fluid well and get the maximum benefits for your paintings.



1. Masking fluid that is old or contaminated will be difficult or even impossible to remove from paper. For best results use fresh fluid, and write the date on the bottle when it is first opened. Discard any unused products after one year, or sooner if the product has become difficult to remove from your paper or if it's colorant  has left a stain on your paper. Also, paper that is very old will have deteriorated sizing, and that, too, will affect how your masking fluid adheres. Always use fresh products for the best results. 

2. Never EVER shake bottles of masking fluid, it will incorporate air into the fluid which will shorten the shelf life of the product, and make it more difficult to use. Instead, gently swirl or stir the liquid until thoroughly mixed. Adding a pair of small glass beads, marbles, or steel ball bearings into the masking fluid’s jar will help you to mix the fluid easier.

3. To apply the fluid, use a brush that has plastic bristles. The kind that are often found in dollar stores in the children’s or toy section, and usually come in a package of a dozen or so for around a dollar. The stiff plastic bristles allow for maximum control, and can be trimmed with scissors to any needed shape. The plastic bristles do not absorb the fluid, making it easier to clean and reuse. 


4. Apply masking fluid generously. The thicker you apply it, the easier it will be to peel it off later. Thinly applied masking fluid will be difficult to remove.

5. Even with the plastic brushes, it is still best to rub a little liquid soap into the bristles before using them with masking fluid. The soap creates a barrier between the brush and fluid, and makes it easier to clean.

6. Make sure your paper is perfectly dry before applying or removing masking fluid. Never apply it to wet or damp paper, and never try to remove it from wet or damp paper.

7. If you spill or spatter masking fluid somewhere where you don’t want it (such as on your workbench, floor, or other areas of your painting), don’t try to wipe it up. You’ll only end up rubbing it into the surface, making it even more difficult to remove. Instead, let it dry completely and then peel it off.

8. Once you’ve applied the fluid to your paper, don’t leave it on for more than a week. The longer it’s there; the harder it will be to remove. Also, heat will harden masking fluid and make it more difficult to remove, so don’t leave your painting in a hot place or apply heat from a hair dryer while the masking fluid is on your paper.

9. When you’re ready to remove the masking fluid, use a rubber pick-up tool. This inexpensive square tool is made of crepe (aka: gum) rubber and will stick to the dried mask to pull it off your paper with little effort and no damage. 


10. Exposing your masking fluid to air, water, soap, and other contaminants will cause it to go bad faster, so the more you use it -- the faster your bottle of fluid will deteriorate. Decant your fluid into a smaller nail polish bottle to keep the large bottle fresh longer. The nail polish bottle already has mixing beads and a self storing plastic brush that never needs cleaning. It's also a perfect size for traveling. 
(Masking fluid decanted into a nail polish bottle)



This photo shows plastic brushes, steel ball bearings, masking fluid (aka: liquid frisket), and a rubber pick-up tool. To see how masking fluid is used, click here to see a step-by-step tutorial of one of my recent maritime paintings...

Watch this short video for more masking fluid tips!

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posted by Annie Strack @ 8:29 PM   3 Comments

All images and content copyright Annie Strack 2026. Although I occasionally receive compensation for some posts, I always give my honest opinions, findings, beliefs, or experiences on those topics or products. The views and opinions expressed on this blog are purely my own.